Hussein Chalayan spring-summer 2007, One Hundred and Eleven, scanned from Hussein Chalayan, published by Rizzoli, New York.

Chalayan is inspired by the way in which world events, including wars, revolutions, political and social changes have shaped fashion over the course of a century. Through One Hundred and Eleven, he commented on time and history in a collaboration with Swarovski that celebrated the crystal company’s 111th anniversary. As early as 2001, Chalayan had begun to explore the concept of morphing in his film for the Mapreading (autumn-winter 2001) collection. With One Hundred and Eleven, he pushed the idea further, creating a series of hand-constructed mechanical dresses which, as part’s moved, physically morphed from one era’s style to another. Representing a fashion history retrospective of over a century, Chalayan began with a high-necked, full-length Victorian silhouette dating from 1895 that metamorphosed, at the touch of a button, to a looser-fitting dress that rose to the calf in a 1910 style before transforming into a distinctive 1920s flapper dress. With six morphing dresses, Chalayan leapt through decades and iconic silhouettes engineering a spectacular vision of fashion and its vocabulary. The soundtrack provided a contrast to the stunning technological feats by bringing together audio fragments taken from jet engines, trench warfare and aerial bombings.